As a small-scale organic farmer who believes in the grass-roots power of the local food movement, I find Michelle Obama’s food activism inspiring. When I heard about her reforms to public school lunches, of course I thought it was a step in the right direction. Just a step, mind you: ultimately, I’d like to see kids have a hand in growing, harvesting, and preparing their own school lunches, as they do in an increasing number of schools across the country. But we’re far from that where I live, in rural central Kentucky. My husband, David, raised a vegetable garden for a few years at my...